GDS Hair Dye Shampoo ingredients, graded
Every ingredient.
Every grade.
The full declared lists for Black and for Brown and Dark Brown, in the order printed on the box, with our risk grade beside each one. The high grades are the dye chemistry itself: PPD in Black, PTD in the browns, resorcinol in all three, plus the couplers that set the shade. There is no version of a permanent dye that keeps the coverage and drops them.
Black and the browns are two formulas. Black is built on p-phenylenediamine (PPD). Brown and Dark Brown are built on toluene-2,5-diamine sulfate (PTD), a close relative that cross-reacts in people sensitised to PPD. All three use resorcinol and m-aminophenol as couplers and hydrogen peroxide as the developer.
Ammonia-free means ethanolamine. The alkaliser that opens the cuticle is ethanolamine instead of ammonia. That is why it does not sting the eyes or smell like a box kit. It is not gentler on the allergen front.
A grade is our screening's assessment, not a safety verdict. High means a recognised sensitiser or a regulated dye intermediate; mid means an irritation, impurity or allergen-labelling concern; low means nothing notable in the literature at cosmetic use levels.
Four jobs, and which ingredient does each.
Primary intermediate
PPD in Black; PTD (toluene-2,5-diamine sulfate) in Brown and Dark Brown. The small molecule that slips into the hair shaft and becomes the pigment. Both are potent sensitisers and both carry our high grade.
Couplers
Resorcinol, m-aminophenol, 2,4-diaminophenoxyethanol HCl — and in the browns p-aminophenol and 4-amino-2-hydroxytoluene. They react with the intermediate to set the final tone. Resorcinol and m-aminophenol are graded high.
Developer
Hydrogen peroxide, in the second part of the formula. It oxidises the intermediates into colour inside the hair. Rinsed off, but it can irritate skin, eyes and scalp — graded mid.
Alkaliser
Ethanolamine, standing in for ammonia. Swells the hair so the dye can get in. Graded mid: safe as used per CIR, with nitrosamine formation a theoretical concern in the presence of nitrosating agents.
In the order printed on the box.
Taken from the ingredient declarations on the packaging, translated to INCI names. Each graded name links to its entry in our ingredient glossary, where the grade and the reasoning behind it live. Grades shown as of 12 September 2026.
Black
Ships as GDS Black
Brown and Dark Brown
Ships as Couture Brown / Couture Deep Brown
Brown and Dark Brown share this list. The two shades use the same ingredients and differ in how much of each dye component goes in — and a declaration names what is in the bottle, not how much.
Every declared ingredient now has a glossary entry and a grade. how to use it step by step · which shade to pick · GDS vs the alternatives.
What a grade means, and what it does not.
What it means
High: a recognised skin sensitiser or a regulated dye intermediate with published allergy data. Mid: an irritation, impurity or allergen-labelling concern at typical use levels. Low: nothing notable in the literature for cosmetic use. Every grade has its reasoning on the ingredient's own page.
What it does not mean
It is not a safety determination for you. A low-graded botanical can still be the thing you react to, and a high-graded dye can be used for years without incident. The only test that applies to your skin is a patch test, 48 hours, before every use.
What is not in it, and what that is worth.
Ammonia-free
True. Ethanolamine does the alkalising. Less smell, no eye sting, same allergen profile.
Paraben-free
True. Preserved with potassium sorbate and 1,2-hexanediol in the browns; the Black formula uses no listed paraben either.
Not PPD-free
Black contains PPD. The browns do not, but they contain PTD, which cross-reacts. We do not describe any shade of this product as PPD-free or PTD-free.
Sulfates
Yes. Sodium laureth sulfate and sodium lauryl sulfate in Black; sodium C14-16 olefin sulfonate and lauryl betaine in the browns. Graded mid for SLES and SLS.
Patch test 48 hours ahead.
Every time, not just the first.
A small dab behind the ear or on the inner elbow, left uncovered for 48 hours. Any redness, itching or swelling means do not use it. Sensitisation to PPD and PTD can appear after years of trouble-free use, and a "PPD-free" label on any dye would not protect someone already sensitised — which is why the test is repeated before each application.
Quick answers.
Does GDS Hair Dye Shampoo contain PPD? +–
The Black shade does. Brown and Dark Brown use toluene-2,5-diamine sulfate (PTD) instead, a close relative of PPD that cross-reacts in people who are sensitised to PPD. All three shades contain resorcinol and m-aminophenol as couplers.
Is GDS Hair Dye Shampoo ammonia-free? +–
Yes. The alkaliser is ethanolamine, which is why it does not smell like a box kit or sting the eyes. It is not milder on the allergen front: the dye intermediates are the same class as any permanent colour.
Is it paraben-free? +–
Yes. No paraben appears on either declared list. The browns are preserved with potassium sorbate and 1,2-hexanediol.
Why are Brown and Dark Brown one list? +–
They use the same ingredients and differ in how much of each dye component goes in. A declaration names what is in the bottle, not how much, so the two shades print the same list.
What does "high" mean in your grade? +–
A recognised skin sensitiser or a regulated dye intermediate with published allergy data. In this product that is PPD, PTD, resorcinol, m-aminophenol and 2,4-diaminophenoxyethanol HCl. It is our screening's assessment, not a safety determination for any individual.
Which oils are in it? +–
Avocado, macadamia, jojoba, olive, grape seed and camellia seed oil in the Black formula, which is why we say no separate conditioner is needed. The browns carry a different set of extracts, amino acids and hydrolysed collagen.
Where is the ingredient list printed on my bottle? +–
On the back of the box and the bottle, in Korean, because you receive the Korean-market packaging. The lists above are the translation to INCI names, and the export-label and Korean-label lists are set side by side on our About the label page.
Every ingredient graded.
Nothing behind a badge.
Ships from Korea within one to three business days, tracked. Patch test 48 hours before every use.